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By Dana Aufiero

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The Eiffel Tower dances with glinting lights on a perfect evening to celebrate Parisian Excellence. Trickling water of the Trocadéro fountain glows in front of the classic bold Yves  Saint Laurent monogram; a baroque orchestral melody sets the tone for the night. An ode to classical Parisian monuments unlocks the vault of Yves Saint Laurent classics; renovating authentic silhouettes that are close to the brand’s identity. 


Vaccarello’s last show under the Eiffel Tower paid homage to his former partner, Pierre Bergè, with colorful prints and sequins that added a vintage flair. He continues to showcase retro with a minimalist touch by honoring the fashion house’s archives, and returning to the brand’s most classic pieces.


Oversized peacoats sweep the floor, yet are still tailored in a way that reveals the model’s form. Vaccarello stated after the last Spring ‘22 collection that he wanted to “fix all those oversized jackets I am tired of seeing on Instagram” and “just wanted to show what a well-cut jacket is'' he continues to ‘fix’ those jackets in the Spring ‘23 collection. 


Broad shoulders on the jacket create bulky sleeves, yet a faint clinch at the waist allows the model to move swiftly with confidence, revealing her fitted-sheer bottom layers. High-waisted trousers are paired with oversized peacoats, offering a new edge to the Le Smoking tuxedo of 1966 with playful wooden cuffs and bright reflective sunglasses.


The revival of 1969's hoodie dress appears in muted earth tones and is paired with over-sized rectangular gold ornaments that resemble Paloma Picasso earrings from Tiffany’s, the well-known Saint Laurent Muse and jewelry designer. 


The hooded dress, designed by Yves Saint Laurent himself, made its return to the runway in 1985, 2002, and 2023: with its revival continuing to honor both the wearer’s anonymity and figure in its sleek elegance. From Egyptian goddesses to Grace Jones, Vacarello’s capuche continues to idolize a woman’s power and poise with light draping that is layered over comet gold metal earrings. 


Laurent’s daytime business casual transforms into night, with jackets taking an even bolder form in leather. No two jackets resemble one another, each with different collars and cuts at the shoulders: from a double-collar, loose fit in burgundy to an asymmetric buttoned neck in olive green. The jacket is both long and cropped, making a powerful, striking statement when paired with unveiling sheer gowns.


The heightened energy persists throughout as models’ gold-plated ornaments twinkle against the tower’s backdrop. A slight deviation from monochrome appears in the final moments when a playful polka-dot suit arises from the black leather trenches. However, Vaaccarello returns to the black stealth capuche and trench for the show’s closing, enticing the audience with Laurent’s illustrious, mysterious allure. 

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