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  • Written by Ugne Giraityte


The 2023 Valentino Haute Couture show “Un Chateau” displays a sense of magnificence and opulence, reminiscent of the elegance of a French chateau. Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli collection celebrates rich colors, sophisticated accessories and simplicity.

The runway took place on July 5, while the English-born singer-songwriter Anohni curated the soundtrack for the show when visitors were taken to a historic 19th-century French chateau in Chantilly, roughly 50 km outside of Paris. Chateau where La crème Chantilly was once invented by the famous pastry chef and caterer Vatel, which embodies the renaissance revival and brings out Valentino values. A location the creative director describes as “unanchored to geographies or eras, but expressive of an idea of life.” Today, Château can reject its past, reinvent itself, and create a safe space of tranquillity for everyone.

The minimalist silhouettes that Pierpaolo Piccioli, the designer and creative director for the Italian luxury fashion brand, is known for were once again the source of inspiration. Opening with fully micro-crystal-encrusted denim trousers and a white shirt, the show symbolised pureness and minimalism. Soft pastels and classic neutrals followed by deep burgundies, rich blues and emerald greens. Each piece is given an air of elegance and refinement by the use of expensive materials like silk, velvet, and lace. Mixed structured and fluid shapes, including fitted suits and flowing gowns, flatter the figure and radiate casual elegance.

This Valentino project aims to balance purity and simplicity. Piccioli rejects the grand patterns and embroideries, instead simplifying their expression to a contemporary state. The attention is drawn to the huge swinging chandelier earrings and giant bow-adorned flats bringing a luxurious feeling to overall casual yet ceremonial designs. “It’s un chateau rather than the chateau,” Piccioli points out to Vogue. The runway show is an abstract space focusing on minerals, textures and the easiness of the collection.

As per usual, many big names and celebrities were seen at the show, including Florence Pugh, Raye, Amina Muaddi, Son Ye-Jin, Nikki Parker, Naomi Ackie and others.


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