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  • Written by Samuel Gut

SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COUTURE 24/25: DANIEL ROSEBERRY AND HIS PHOENIX, WORTHY HEIRS OF ELSA SCHIAPARELLI



Flamboyant, the house of Schiaparelli opens the ball for the 2024/2025 Haute Couture season. Daniel Roseberry presents an elegant and sophisticated collection, "Phoenix and Other Imaginary Birds." It was beneath the floor of the hôtel Salomon de Rotschild, in the 8th arrondissement of Paris, that the house gathered its guests. Under the light of two chandeliers and a series of discreet runway lights, thirty-one outfits paraded. The golden thread of this collection: the animal.


The first outfit sets the tone. Fixed on the shoulders of the model, sculpted metal wings could give her a harpy-like appearance. But the folded position of these attributes renders them harmless, almost demure. From the start, Roseberry's finesse and creativity blaze, illuminating the dark room with their golden reflections.


While the metallic wings of the first outfit clearly evoke the figure of the phoenix, the rest of the collection mimics a broader bestiary. A coat and hat ensemble is covered in fake white feathers, giving the model a hybrid image, less violent than those in the film "The Animal Kingdom." The volume of the top contrasts with black pleated trousers that leave the ankles visible. Two duchess silk satin dresses, one pastel pink, the other navy blue, compete in elegance. Along the hips and then the legs, hand-cut and side-by-side placed ribbons let the skin breathe. Trompe l’oeil shoes are positioned on the bustier, also covered in silk satin.


A look features a black wool piqué jacket with an interior teeming with silk organza feather-effect points, in orange and red. The fire feathers here belong to the Phoenix, not to the red cardinal or the ibis, far too real for Roseberry and Schiaparelli. And while talking about inspirations from the animal kingdom, it's worth mentioning the unforgettable zebra-pattern jumpsuit with its silver-plated palladium wire choker. On some dresses, spotted motifs are applied here and there. A great piece of the collection is a silver strapless dress holding a very voluminous and wild mille-feuille of moving circles in satin organza. It is enhanced with a vintage 3D trompe l’oeil shoe at the back.


The details and materials of the collection make up its richness. The abundance of feathers, plunging necklines, mesh gloves, embroidery, satin, sharp golden heels, silver and golden eggs, the strapless butterfly volume dress, the mastery of tulle, the elevated shoulders suggesting closed wings, are all proof that Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry, and haute couture are a combination that works wonderfully.




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