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  • Written by Ugne Giraityte

SAINT LAURENT SPRING-SUMMER 24’: ANTHONY VACCARELLO’S REPRESENTATION OF OPULENCE AND POWER



Paris Fashion Week has commenced, marking the end of the Spring/Summer 2024 fashion season. Closing the second day of this prestigious event, Belgian-Italian fashion designer Anthony Vaccarello presented an opulent collection in the scenery of the Eiffel Tower, cementing his influence at Saint Laurent with extravagance and authority.


For the SS24 collection, Vaccarello warmly welcomed an audience comprising friends, family, and notable celebrities such as Kate Moss, Hailey Bieber, BLACKPINK's Rosé, Austin Butler and Zoë Kravitz, to partake in a quintessential Saint Laurent exhibition. The show’s creative director found inspiration in cutting-edge women like Amelia Earhart and Adrienne Bolland, who ventured into traditionally male-dominated realms like aviation and auto racing. The stage, adorned with marble accents, exuded refinement and grace, highlighting the strength of Parisian women. The designer paid homage to Saint Laurent's rich 70-year heritage by crafting sophisticated yet sensually chic casual ensembles.


The fashion show welcomed its spectators with 49 distinct looks showcasing timeless Saint Laurent silhouettes, including the iconic caftan-style dress. The sophistication and power of the feminine style portrayed utility jumpsuits, cargo trousers, tailored pencil skirts, voluminous blouses, elegantly draped scarves, gathered leather gloves, and aviation-inspired headwear. Central to the collection, the Saharian jacket drew inspiration from the North African world where founder Yves Saint Laurent spent his formative years, creating a cohesive narrative. The collection echoes the iconic looks from the 80s; full maquillage, slicked hair, and giant gilt door-knocker earrings lend a touch of nostalgic glamour to the minimalist attire.


Anthony Vaccarello infused his distinctive signature aesthetic, transforming the customary beiges and tans into striking brick reds, saffron yellows, and deep marigold hues. As the show notes elucidated, the collection's essence is grounded in practicality, blending couture-inspired daywear with a more relaxed silhouette compared to previous seasons. The entire collection embraced a pleasing palette of earthy tones, including gold, creamy whites, rich browns, and deep blacks, harmonizing the interplay of feminine and masculine elements.




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