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Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2025: An Ode to Power Dressing

Written by Anna Johnson



Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer show attracted a star-studded audience on a rainy evening in Paris. In the brand’s headquarters on Rue de Bellechasse, Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello gave a humble nod to the eponymous Yves Saint Laurent. Revering the ideal Saint Laurent women, Vaccarello sends his models  down the runway in exaggerated suits with slouchy cuts and high lapels. Yves Saint Laurent’s ideal archetypal woman tiptoes a line between sensual feminine and dark seduction. Fiercely independent, she is strong, yet subtle, powerful, yet soft.

 

Staying true to the brand’s signature style, trench coats are layered over blazers. Wide, slouchy shoulders are paired with oversized accessories. Enormous, beaded necklaces line tops cut below the belly button in a balance between allure and domineering power-dressing. Contrasting fabrics exaggerate the dual personality of the Saint Laurent woman.

 

The colour palette begins fairly earthy against the cobalt-blue floor, a reference to Yves Saint Laurent’s enchanting Jardin Majorelle in Marrakesh. The clothes are boho, effortless and flowing, before blooming into a burst of colour in frilled femininity.

 

Members of the audience included Kate Moss, who paired a gauzy skirt with a blazer in true Saint Laurent style. Zoe Kravitz also channelled the brand in a sheer lace bodysuit paired with diamond accessories and an understated slingback black stiletto. Gwyneth Paltrow kept it classy in a slouchy pantsuit and Abby Lee bared it all underneath a gorgeous, high-neck, sheer burgundy dress.

 

This show marked the return of supermodel Bella Hadid who was sorely missed by fashion fans. After her appearance in a killer black suit, exuding androgynous elegance, the looks on the runway transform with a music change from a slower instrumental interlude to thumping techno. During the show’s second half, brocade prints dominate the runway in silk, cascading behind the models as they walk. Oversized leather bombers are shrugged on over chiffon skirts, topped off with gold accents and exaggerated beads. A subtle nod to the Charles James evening jacket, a series of outerwear pieces of varying opulent colours, rich golds, deep blues and burnt orange, appear cut with clean lines. Diaphonous blouses paired with bright ruffle mini skirts and a lace hem peek through underneath.

 

Combining expert tailoring with delicate, dichotomous styling led to a well-executed show and a happy reception from fashion critics.




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