The first words that may come to mind when looking at the work of Anthony Vaccarello in The Saint Laurent Men's Winter 23’ collection are: chic, fluid, bold and elegant. Each piece was dripping with class.
Spectators sat in a circle, lining the outer edge of The Bourse de Commerce in Paris, watching the models strut beneath the rotunda in a very intimate runway. This venue choice was no accident. It was chosen to showcase Saint Laurent’s relationship with art. The works of Japanese architect Tadao Ando paired perfectly with the sophisticated radiance of the collection. The tall concrete walls served as a backdrop to the pieces on the runway.
The most notable part of this menswear collection is the androgyny that Vaccarello has achieved. A few blouses featured exaggerated neckties, almost resembling a large bow or ribbon. Proportions were everything in this show, showcasing torsos with striking assertive shoulders and a tight waist.
The collection featured a refined palette — black, white, grays and tans. Each piece blurred the lines between masculinity and femininity, whether it be through silhouettes, materials or styling. Several pieces featured high necks, covering half of the model's face, while others featured plunging necklines. Many of the models were styled in thick, black sunglasses that covered most of their face— drawing attention to the clothes.
Vaccarello brought back the hoods featured in a Saint Laurent women’s collection and developed them further into hooded jackets. Trench coats and sweaters dominated the runway, each offering a unique flair. Fabrics were styled together thoughtfully to exude a balance of soft and hard. Stark black leather and velvet juxtaposed see-through and silk blouses.
As it is usual, the list of guests counted with a large number of VIPs from Christian Coppola, Talia Ryder, Conan Gray, Honey Dijon, Chloe Cherry and Lil Dre.
Every piece shown on the catwalk was a pure expression of Saint Laurent’s brand, expressing the luxury and elegant aesthetic the house is known for, while breaking down gender stereotypes. Every intentional detail made the show feel like a true production and a work of art.
