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  • Written by Eli Jullo


Saint Laurent Fall Winter 24 - 25
© Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent Fall Winter 24 - 25 by Anthony Vaccarello took us on an intimate journey playing on both fragility and strength, with powerful women in provocatively-elegant evening-wear taking center stage, on the first day of Paris Fashion Week.

Drawing inspiration from Yves Saint Laurent's boundary-pushing experiments with transparent chiffon, lace, and tulle, Anthony Vaccarello embarked on a journey to achieve an almost disappearance of the clothes themselves. The collection perfectly encapsulated Yves Saint Laurent’s rich heritage blending quintessential femininity with touches of androgynous allure and hyper-sensuality. The models were powerful and exuded sheer confidence in their sexuality, reminiscent of an era epitomized by Helmut Newton’s photography.

The figure-hugging silhouettes of an almost entirely sheer collection was a daring twist on Yves Saint Laurent’s playfulness with transparency, when in the late 60’s, he had shocked the fashion world by presenting a collection of sheer garments sans underpinnings, making a statement about gender equality and sexual freedom as opposed to mere exhibitionism.

The stage itself was an ode to intimacy and nostalgia. The damask drapes enveloped the guests who sat on low leather sofas around two circular catwalks, evoking a sense of old-world charm, reminiscent of the ‘salon avenue Marceau’ once home to the brand’s headquarters. With a futuristic mise en scene similar to the atmosphere of Blade Runner, the decor was both nostalgic and refreshing, with a dramatic effect created by the converging universe of light and obscure to a captivating soundtrack by SebastiAn.

The silk fabrics were skillfully draped around the body to create see-through dresses, halter tops and pussybow blouses with each look offering a unique twist to the stretchy designs. The traditional turtle-neck and knee-grazing pencil skirts combined with the unconventional transparent silk, suggested a blend of timeless elegance with modern techniques. Crepe georgette, celebrated for its fluidity, signaled a departure from structured silhouettes and instead embraced a gentle rendering that seamlessly moved with the naked body.

The oversized power-shoulder coats worn with nothing underneath was a bold nod to audacious confidence. Coats were masqueraded as statement pieces, arms were adorned with glass bangles, the hair was neatly wrapped a la Loulou de La Falaise as the earrings lightly grazed the shoulders, all this imbued the models with an air of understated sophistication.

The color palette, drawing inspiration from makeup shades used to "conceal fragility," danced between pale beige, caramel, maroon and grey tones, punctuated by occasional bursts of jewel colors like dark red or bright blue. Again, the soft skin, nude makeup, punctuated with a touch of red lips amplified the ethereal allure.

In the front row, a star-studded ensemble of supermodels including Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, Monica Bellucci, and Carla Bruni mingled effortlessly with acclaimed actors Lily Collins, Olivia Wilde, Catherine Deneuve, and Zoe Kravitz.

To learn more about the legacy of Saint Laurent’s experimentation with transparency dating back to the 60’s, the museum Yves Saint Laurent, avenue Marceau is currently holding an exhibition ‘transparences, le pouvoir des matières’ until the 25th of August 2024.


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