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  • Written by Carolina Benjumea


In 2021, Phoebe Philo announced the creation of her namesake label. Without many details, the fashion industry was eager to revive her years of glory at Chloé and Céline, two brands she helped stablish. The expectation was high. Fashion enthusiasts subscribed to her website to receive the first preview of her brand. After deciding not to show during the Fashion Week calendar, instead doing a public online presentation, on October 30th, the collection named A1 made its debut, bringing Phoebe Philo back to the fashion sphere.

The renowned British designer left a lasting mark on the fashion world when she departed from Céline in 2017. Her ability to redefine the codes of Chloé and Céline was nothing short of remarkable. Her collections withstood the test of time, resonating with a generation of women who appreciate modern, minimalist, and sophisticated fashion.

The A1 collection showcased 150 pieces. While most were waiting for an elegant and minimalist wardrobe, Philo knew exactly how to keep the essence of her style while providing a modern and avant-garde twist. The pieces portrayed a military feel, subtly juxtaposed with a hint of feminine allure, merging clean lines with oversized garments, and portraying a strong femininity as seen through the eyes of Phoebe Philo.

Throughout the collection, well-tailored pants and coats are blended among statement pieces. For instance, the asymmetric and sequined dresses are sexy and playful, while the long zippers on the pants and the fluffy shearling coats are unexpected. Her mastery of leather is seen in striking jackets, boots, and bags, and statement sunglasses create a timeless yet edgy look. The predominance of dark hues juxtaposed with pastels and a few bold reds, reflect the essence of the designer.

Phoebe Philo said of her return, "I am very much looking forward to being back in touch with my audience and people everywhere. To be independent, to govern and experiment on my own terms is hugely significant to me." With a minority investment from LVMH, the A1 collection will be available in three drops from now until the end of the year, and its second collection, named A2, during Spring 2024. "The Phoebe Philo business model is designed to create a responsible balance between production and demand. For us, this means producing notably less than anticipated want," the designer claimed.


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