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  • Written by Emily Pink


Gucci’s eagerly awaited Spring/Summer 24’ collection was the brainchild of new creative director, Sabato De Sarno. Making its debut on the catwalk of Milan Fashion Week, De Sarno ensured his collection was awash with elegant and understated garments, forging a new path for the brand.

De Sarno has succeeded Alessandro Michele, who served the brand as creative director from 2015 to 2022. Michele’s Gucci, instantly recognisable from its penchant to maximalist designs, has now shifted towards a more understated elegance under the new visionary.

A far cry from the extravagance of Gucci’s previous collections, De Sarno has opted to champion sleek silhouettes, sultry cuts and muted tones. However, the creative director refers to Gucci’s iconic eccentricity, pairing stripped down looks with chunky metal hardware and statement platform shoes.

If anything, De Sarno’s Gucci is reminiscent of the wildly successful Tom Ford era of the fashion house. It is difficult to not draw similarities between De Sarno’s designs and those that graced the Fall 1996 runway.

Stand-out looks include a leather burgundy ensemble, paired with matching glasses, Gucci “Jackie” bag and sling backs. Amidst the shades of black, De Santo surprised with blush pink, lime green and blush pink. The Gucci stripe is almost always hidden in plain sight, branding the garments with the fashion house’s famous colours. Among the diverse collection, it is undeniable that each and every look exuded a sense of subtle luxury.

De Sarno’s new era can be described with one word – “ancora”, meaning “again”. Romantically emphasising the need for “a story of richness and lustre/desire, of red but also blue and green, of flash, of spontaneity, of light”, De Sarno’s new direction is insistent on creating beautiful pieces for beautiful moments.

While it seems like Gucci’s new collection has diverged from Michele’s styles that are now imprinted in the luxury fashion space, the house remains committed to displaying wearable pieces of art – and only time will tell just how the brand intends to continue making history, again and again.


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