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  • Written by Moe Wang


Combining punchy colors and formal suits, Christian Dior Homme SS 2024 collection was about adding a psychedelic touch to formal luxury wear. Overall, this fifth-anniversary collection by the brand’s menswear creative director, Kim Jones, was a little bit sporty, a little bit psychedelic, and a whole lot of breathing fresh life into the signature multicolored tweed. The runway took place in a house-gray box set at the École Militaire, polished and lined in the futuristic color of metallic silver. Models appearing from the floor, each standing still on the metal gray tile, set the tone for the groundbreaking collection and introduced viewers to the polished ensembles. Jones turned to the three preceding Dior designers to draw his ideas for this collection, taking hints from Yves Saint Laurent silhouettes, embroideries of Gianfranco Ferré, textures of Marc Bohan, and cabochons of Monsieur Dior, but the key that kept all the flowing inspirations and ideas together and consistent was Christian Dior’s Cannage pattern. As he described it himself for Vogue Runway, “It’s a collage of different designers in the archive expressed in shape, color, form, and mood.” Against the rather muted color of long tweed coats and the suit looks, the punchy color palette of lime green, neon blue, shocking pink, and fluoro orange popped off in small accessories like flower chest broach, high-shine sunglasses, and beanies, as well as in knit wears and polo shirts. While keeping the brand’s signature silhouette and tailoring, the looks were given a new twist where tweed shorts were reproduced in sporty touch, vests, and loafers came in leopard patterns, and colorful hats were topped in handmade ronghua velvet flowers from China. In other words, the simple silhouettes of dropped-shoulder blazers, cardigans, and loose trousers were upgraded with Dior’s signature techniques of embroideries, Cannage stitching, and the constant use of tweeds and jewels. The studded jewels on the cardigans and polo shirts highlight the luxurious touch present in the collection’s playful and experimental mood. The shiny embellishments were designed by Dior jewelry head and AMBUSH co-founder Yoon Ahn. Many big names and celebrities were seen at the show, including Offset, Winnie Harlow, Pharrell Williams, Demi Moore, Felix Mallard, and more.


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