A GLITTERY ENTRANCE- YSL'S VACCARELLO DEBUTS IN MENSWEAR
SAINT LAURENT'S NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR PAYS HOMAGE TO ICONIC '60s AND '70s GLAM ROCK
For Saint Laurent's Menswear Spring 2019 show, designer Anthony Vaccarello switched up his typical location- using the iconic backdrop of NYC's skyline in place of the Eiffel tower. It was a time of firsts for Vaccarello- his first ever show in New York and first menswear show under his new label- meaning he was expected to serve the unexpected. And he did exactly that, from the tremendously glittering finale to his particular inclusion of Yves' personal flair.
Saint Laurent's aim to include quintessential elements of both fashion past and present was made clear, as the show paid homage to a party Yves Saint Laurent had thrown in 1978 to celebrate the launch of his Opium perfume. That party had been held on a ship in NYC's seaport and was filled to the brim with exotic orchids and decorated as a captivating pirate ship. Forty years later Vaccarello's attendees, including Kate Moss and Travis Scott, travelled to the show via ferry with a nostalgic and dazzling view of the cityscape.
But his inspiration by Yves' launch party didn't stop there, as references to '70s New York were made with distressed denim and flared boot-cut trousers. Vaccarello simultaneously added components of '60s swinging London style with eye-catching neckties, high-waisted skinny jeans, and an overall glam-rock tribute. To tie it all together, the designer included modern twists with stark black silhouettes overlapping airy chiffon dress shirts- completing the edgy and provocative glamour of the menswear collection.
Saint Laurent has made clear of its musing of Kaia Gerber in past shows, and this menswear season was no exception. The 16-year-old soaked up the spotlight in a western hat and simultaneously feminine and masculine attire. Despite the aforementioned inclusion of fresh developments such as location and throwback inspiration, the finale took the cake. Freshly liberating bare-chested models confronted the stage covered in silver smeared glitter and bedecked in sequined pants- a demonstration of Vaccarello's embrace of his status as a newcomer in menswear by going out with a uniquely androgynous bang.