LOUIS VUITTON’S CREATIVE ANACHRONISM
NICOLAS GHESQUIERE OFFERS A SARTORIAL TRAVEL IN TIME
Imagine a front row packed with all today’s stars including Hollywood actresses Lea Seydoux, Alicia Vikander and Florence Pugh along with the usual fashion connoisseurs -and you get the Fall-Winter 2020 Louis Vuitton show. It was a most appropriate finale for Paris Fashion Week and the prologue for the upcoming MET exhibition: About Time: Fashion and Duration scheduled to take place after the Met Gala extravaganza, sponsored by Louis Vuitton and chaired by Ghesquière himself. Ghesquière formulated a whole collection around the theme of time and how fashion reacts to it by its ever-changing trends and styles, mirroring the present and forecasting the future. In his mind, those styles and eras intersect to create fun hybrids of futuristic items in historical shapes. “I wanted a group of characters that represent different countries, different cultures, different times,” commented Ghesquière. “I love this interaction between the people seated in the audience, the girls walking, and the past looking at them – these three visions mixed together.”
This was the concept of the show that began in the darkness of a black box buried inside the Louvre courtyard-only to unveil a chorus of 200 dressed in historical costumes spanning 350 years of history from the 15th century to today. For this task, Nicolas Ghesquiere assigned Stanley Kubrick’s Oscar-winning costume designer Milena Canonero to create a backdrop for the show that would reflect his concept on time and timelessness.
The designer himself described the creative process as: “do everything you can do with clothes, to mix and match them” adding that: “This collection is the complete opposite of the ‘total look. It’s sartorial tuning,” And we couldn’t agree more.
Ghesquiere has long been fascinated by making the anachronous up-to-date, creatively blending references that range from baroque and the 70s to sci-fi and street style trends. Parachute pants met embellished boleros and true-to-style petticoats with sci-fi robotic blouses while racing driver pants were paired with tailored pieces bourgeois-style. The show was a true celebration of fashion per se; despite eras and times or perhaps, because of them.